Expedition
Planning Guide
Everything you need to plan a Himalayan expedition - from choosing the right peak for your experience level to permit timelines, physical preparation, acclimatisation science, and exactly what we handle on your behalf.
Planning a Himalayan expedition is one of the most complex logistical undertakings in adventure travel. We've guided climbers from their first trekking peak to the summit of Everest. This guide condenses everything we've learned across hundreds of expeditions into one resource.
Choosing the Right Peak
The single most important decision in expedition planning. Choosing a peak above your ability is the leading cause of failed expeditions and preventable accidents in the Himalaya.
The ideal entry point into Himalayan mountaineering. Most trekking peaks require only basic crampon and ice axe skills taught on-route. The approach treks are spectacular in their own right, and summit days are achievable for fit, determined trekkers with no prior climbing experience.
12-Month Planning Timeline
A Himalayan expedition requires methodical preparation across 12–18 months. This is the exact timeline we walk every client through, from first enquiry to summit day.
Goal Setting & Research
- Define your summit objective based on experience and fitness level
- Research permit requirements, costs, and seasonal availability
- Begin cardiovascular base training - 5+ hours per week
- Book a personalised consultation with our expedition team
Booking & Permits
- Confirm expedition dates and sign the expedition agreement
- Pay deposit to secure your permit slot
- Submit expedition history and medical clearance documentation
- We file all permit applications with the Department of Tourism
Physical Preparation
- Structured altitude training begins - target 10+ hours per week
- Alpine skills refresher - crampon technique, ice axe arrest, rope work
- Complete a qualifying climb if required for your objective
- Confirm team and guide assignments with our office
Gear & Logistics
- Finalise and field-test all personal climbing equipment
- Break in expedition boots with weighted training carries
- Confirm visa requirements and purchase flights
- Complete a pre-expedition briefing call with your lead guide
Final Preparation
- Final gear audit against our equipment checklist
- Assemble and familiarise yourself with your medical kit
- Brief emergency contacts on your itinerary and check-in schedule
- Taper training in the final two weeks before departure
Briefing & Departure
- Airport pickup and hotel check-in
- Permit collection and final documentation
- Full equipment check with your head guide
- Team briefing - route, acclimatisation plan, emergency protocol
Physical Preparation
High-altitude mountaineering is among the most physically demanding pursuits on Earth. This is the four-phase model our guides recommend to every expedition client.
Build a broad aerobic foundation with 8–12 hours per week of zone 2 cardiovascular work - hiking, cycling, running. Include weekly weighted carries of 15–20kg to develop the load-bearing fitness critical for high-altitude trekking.
- Weekly long hike: 4–6 hours
- Weighted carry: 20kg over 1,000m gain
- Resting heart rate under 55 bpm
Acclimatisation Science
Acclimatisation failure is the leading cause of turned-back expeditions and preventable altitude-related deaths. Understanding the physiology is non-negotiable.
The 300m Rule
Above 3,000m, ascend no more than 300m of sleeping altitude per day. This is the single most fundamental principle of safe acclimatisation.
Climb High, Sleep Low
Make excursions to higher elevations during the day, then descend to sleep at a lower camp. This drives adaptation without accumulating excessive altitude exposure overnight.
Mandatory Rest Days
For every 1,000m of sleeping-altitude gain, we schedule a mandatory rest day. This is non-negotiable on every expedition we run.
Know the Symptoms
Headache, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue are early AMS symptoms. If they appear, we do not ascend further, and we descend immediately if symptoms worsen.
Hydration Discipline
Climbers should drink 4–6 litres of fluid per day at altitude. Dehydration accelerates altitude sickness and impairs the body's ability to acclimatise.
Medication Protocol
Acetazolamide can accelerate acclimatisation when taken prophylactically. Our medical team reviews dosage with every climber - it is never a substitute for proper pacing.
What We Handle For You
Your job is to show up fit, experienced, and mentally prepared. Everything else is ours.
Permits & Compliance
- Climbing permit applications to the Department of Tourism
- TIMS and national park documentation
- Liaison officer appointment
- All peak royalty and government fees
Logistics & Transport
- Airport pickup and Kathmandu hotel stays
- Ground transportation to the trailhead
- Domestic flight bookings within Nepal
- Porter, Sherpa, and kitchen crew management
Technical Operations
- Fixed rope installation and maintenance
- High camp establishment and stocking
- Weather forecast procurement
- Summit timing decisions based on real-time conditions
Safety & Medical
- Gamow bag and AMS medication at base camp
- Wilderness first responder on every expedition
- Emergency evacuation coordination
- Daily medical monitoring of the full team
Frequently Asked Questions
The questions we're asked most often by climbers planning their first Himalayan expedition.
It depends entirely on your objective. Our 6,000m trekking peaks require no prior mountaineering experience - only good fitness and determination. For 7,000m peaks, we require at least one prior 6,000m summit. For any 8,000m peak, we assess each applicant individually based on their full climbing history.
Start Planning Your Expedition
Our specialists have guided climbers on every major Himalayan peak. Schedule a free consultation and we'll help identify the right objective and handle every logistical detail from permit to summit.